Yogyakarta, or what we usually call as Jogjakarta or simply Jogja, was a place that I travelled to recurrently when I used to live in Jakarta, Indonesia. Though I was fortunate to have been there five or more times, those instances when I made my way there were usually just day trips or overnight stays. More than that, we would spend the day cooped in a conference room for a seminar, in our local office for several meetings, or out in the community project sites building homes.
There were occasions when I was able to stroll Malioboro for some quick shopping or passed by some of the attractions. But majority of those trips were business. So, when I made this leisure trip to Jogja recently, I was groping to the deepest recesses of my memory bank trying to grab mental photographs of the Jogja I once knew 15 years ago.
My memory battery seems to have drained from the moment we stepped out of the train towards station. It was nothing close to the train station I had in mind. No resemblance with the one I could recall. Nevertheless, my Bahasa Indonesia did not fail me as I ordered for a GoCar via my GoJek app to take us to our home for the next 4 days: Pesona Jogja Homestay (which I will blog separately). The cost registered at IDR13,000 which was equivalent to USD1 or PHP50. Oooh, great deal!
Our four days included our train travel arriving in Jogja from Jakarta and leaving the city to get back to the capital. In effect, we had two full days to really roam and explore Jogja and its surrounding areas. For our second day, we opted to go outside the city towards Borobudur and Prambanan. The third day was spent walking around the city center and taking the rickshaw.
Below are suggested 10 things to do in Yogyakarta.
These are based from our itinerary (which we weren’t able to follow to the dot, but I’m sharing the destinations anyway.)
1.) Admire the bas-relief in Borobudur
My very first visit to Jogja, I immediately had an opportunity to climb Borobudur (READ: First-time in Borobudur, Yogyakarta). But that experience seemed rush and I wasn’t enthusiastic then with having to ascend heights. The whole scenario became a blur like a computer software begging for an update. Thankfully, this latest trip afforded me with that chance and I did the climb again, but this time, pausing at various levels and really looking carefully at the stories the bas-relief was conveying to its viewers.
The craftsmanship of the bas-relief was intricate and superb. To think that these are huge blocks placed together, like puzzle pieces that had to form a complete picture. The posters at the site will give you instructions on how you can better appreciate the bas-relief. Being the largest Buddhist temple, the images depict about Buddhist beliefs and narratives, including the story about Buddha.
At the topmost and the central part of the architecture is a giant stupa surrounded by several stupas that each encase a Buddha statue. The temple itself sits on an elevated portion so the peak of Borobudur provides a great vantage point to see the landscape in this part of Central Java.
Website: http://borobudurpark.com/en/home-2/
Tip 1: Better get a combo ticket that will allow you entry to two attractions. Below are the rates for foreigners, applicable to Borobodur, Prambanan and Ratu Boko. Combo rates are entrances to any 2 of the 3 attractions.
| Combo (adult) | IDR520,000 | USD40 or PHP2,000 |
| Combo (children) | IDR320,000 | About USD 25 or PHP1,230 |
| Single entry (adult) | IDR325,000 | USD25 or PHP1,250 |
| Single entry (children) | IDR195,000 | USD15 or PHP750 |
Tip 2: We hired a car at IDR500,000 (over USD38, less than PHP2,000) for one whole day to take us to Borobudur, Prambanan, and Ratu Boko. Here are the contact details: Dimas of Flow Holiday; mobile number or WhatsApp +62 822 2663 4100; website: www.flowholiday.com
Tip 3: Once you get to the souvenir shops, vendors will instantly crowd on you. Even if the price seems okay, don’t jump ahead and make a purchase because suddenly, when someone closed a deal, somebody else will give you a cheaper and better offer.
2.) Enter the chambers in Prambanan
If Borobudur is a Buddhist temple, Prambanan is a sacred place of the Hindus. I have only caught a glimpse of this landmark as we were zooming past it on a land trip from Yogyakarta to Solo, but never had the chance to enter its premises. Technically, this is the first time I set foot in Prambanan.
And if Borobudur is just one massive, solid structure, Prambanan is composed of individual temples with towering spires that symbolize Meru, the sacred mountain that is home to Hindu gods, especially Shiva. These designs are similar to the towers of Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, Cambodia.
The cluster of temples was surrounded by rubbles and a large tarpaulin is posted at the entrance detailing about the 2006 Yogyakarta earthquake that also devastated Prambanan. We walked through the piles of stone blocks and went to the central part of Prambanan. We climbed the rear stairs of the largest structure that stood at the core. At the top of the stairs was a small windowless chamber. The statue of Ganesha stood in the middle of the tight space. We walked around the outdoor corridor and went to the front portion. The chamber at that side was bigger but the air a bit fetid. Inside the dark room, I tried to make out the figure standing there. It was that of Shiva, one of the Hindu gods.
Website: http://borobudurpark.com/en/temple/prambanan-2/
Tip 4: There are Ramayana ballet shows in Prambanan but it starts at 7pm. We couldn’t stay that late though so we skipped that one. But if you are interested in this, stay and don’t miss this cultural show.
3.) Marvel at the view of Prambanan and Merapi from Ratu Boko
About three kilometers away from the Prambanan Complex is the Ratu Boko. Perched on an elevated area, it provides a wonderful landscape of the Prambanan plain while the Merapi Volcano stood at a distance. Ratu Boko is a complex with ruins of structures which appeared to be a palace compound or a settlement.
Many come here to watch the sunset, as we were supposed to do. But we left Prambanan a bit late, so we never made it to Ratu Boko. An opportunity lost but we couldn’t beat time.
Website: http://borobudurpark.com/en/temple/ratu-boko-2/
Tip 5: If you are planning a Borobudur-Prambanan-Ratu Boko itinerary in a day, try to arrive in Prambanan early so you can also leave early and still make it to Ratu Boko. However, I find that it might even be better to have a Borobudur-Ratu Boko-Prambanan route if you want to stay for the night and watch the show.
4.) Learn about royalty at Kraton Yogyakarta
The royalty of Yogyakarta continues to rule the region, the only place in Indonesia that do not elect their governor. The ruling Sultan is also the governor of the Yogyakarta Special Region. The Kraton is the complex of the Sultan. The palace has a basic design that reflects the landscape of the city. Javanese design and architectural style fill the palace.
Musical performances, such as gamelan, are done in the palace. However, it is only open from 8:00am till 2:00pm. It was our bad that we walked from the opposite end of Jalan Malioboro and got engrossed in the shops. By the time we reached the Kraton it was 2:15! Dang! We just walked towards the front in order to get a glimpse of the palace.
In front of the palace are two trees that stand like citadels. A similar feature are also found at the back of the palace.
Website: http://kratonjogja.id/
Tip 6: You can take a becak or rickshaw to get you around the complex and the city center. They charged us IDR20,000 (USD1.50 plus or about PHP77) for the two of us. They can be persistent sometimes, to the point of being annoying. They also crowd on tourists so that their services will be availed. It may be often effective but other tourists do not want the huddle especially if they sense some tourist traps. If you prefer other options, better to download a GoJek app and take GoCar, because we only paid IDR13,000 to IDR15,000 for a trip.
Tip 7: Learning from our experience regarding not making it to opening hours, better visit the Kraton first thing in the morning. That way, you get more time to explore its interiors.
5.) Survey the tunnels in Taman Sari
The Taman Sari Water Castle is within the Kraton complex, a few blocks away from the palace. It is the Sultan’s garden and princesses bathe in this private area. Tourists can visit the pools of Taman Sari. But there is also a mosque within this structure as well as an underground tunnel, which connects the various buildings within Taman Sari.
Since we arrived in the Kraton too late, we opted to walk around the palace towards Taman Sari. But our walking also made it too late for us to enter Taman Sari, which closes at 3:00pm. Another lesson learned.
Tip 8: As a follow-up on Tip 7, make the Kraton and Taman Sari part of your morning itinerary to be able to enter and explore the area.
6.) Shop till you drop along Jalan Malioboro
Jalan Malioboro is the main street in Yogyakarta, filled with shopping goodies. If you walk through its length, you can end up towards the Kraton. It is along Malioboro Street where one can find Mal Malioboro (“mal” means “mall” or shopping complex), Pasar Beringharjo, Hamzah Batik, and various stalls selling souvenir items and batik.
The items at Hamzah Batik are fixed but they are reasonable. Some of the souvenirs we bought at Borobudur were even more expensive. To think this is an air-conditioned building. You will also find some interesting displays, like a museum showcase, inside Hamzah Batik. Most of all, spot Raminten, a character dressed like a woman, with red lipsticks. One of my finds in Hamzah Batik is an akar bahar, an ethnic black bracelet or bangle which is made from bahar root, which is regarded as a natural coral. It was introduced to us by one of the Dutch shoppers and said it is often worn against ailments. But we were more interested on the form than its use. Website: http://hamzahbatik.co.id/dunia-batik-dan-cindera-mata.html
Apart from shopping, there are also local culinary delights sold along the street. We had lunch at Restaurant Cirebon, which is a local café with a relaxing vibe. Some artists play local instruments inside. Artworks are displayed on the walls and posts while Dutch lamps are hung on the ceiling. Upon closer inspection, we saw some price tags. So, the restaurant also sells what looked like art and antique items.
When you walk south, you will find historical buildings with intricate architecture, something that I would probably attribute to Dutch influence.
Tip 9: If you need to buy Rupiah, there are moneychangers at Inna Garuda Hotel, at the northern end of Jalan Malioboro. We transacted at Barumum Abadi Raya, which has very friendly staff members, and they are open 8:00am to 7:00pm from Mondays to Fridays, 8:00am to 5:00pm on Saturdays, and 8:00am to 3:00pm on Sundays.
Tip 10: A few buildings away from Inna Garuda Hotel, after a bus station is the Tourism office. You can get maps and directions from here as well as other information that you’ll need to go around Yogyakarta.
Tip 11: Employ your bargaining skills when you buy at the stalls and the market. Better to check first the prices in establishments like Hamzah Batik so you have an idea how to bring down the cost when you buy at the streets.
7.) Witness batik making at Batik Plentong
One of the suggested attractions given to us at the moneychanger and the tourism office is the Batik Plentong. We took a becak from inside the Kraton complex to the shop, which was a few blocks away from the Kraton’s south gate. When we got there, we were surprised by the price of the products. A shop staff member explained to us that the ones we found along Malioboro were printed out while theirs go through the intricate process of batik making.
Curious, we asked if we could view how it is done and she led us to the back of the store towards their workshop. There we were able to watch the whole process of batik-making, from sketching to stamping to painting to removing wax. It will need a separate blog post just for this one.
It was tedious and we immediately understood why their products are a bit higher compared with the cheaper goods we saw at the side streets and markets along Jalan Malioboro. The art in itself is amazing and it has become a heritage of Indonesia to make batik. I was eyeing the bandana with the Indonesian map. Too bad I was running out of Rupiah. It was an enlightening visit that made me appreciate batiks even more.
Website: http://www.batikplentong.com/
8.) Relish the batik paintings at Ori Gallery
At the Taman Sari, a local was helping us with the directions and in hailing a becak. He mentioned that there was a painting gallery parallel to Malioboro that shows works of students. Curious, we decided to visit the place from Batik Plentong. We didn’t have the name of the gallery so I just pointed it out in the map where he said it was. When we got there, we asked the locals around who had no idea of the place we were referring. They told us to walk straight ahead.
When we got to a place filled with tourist buses, a local seemed to have known what we were looking for, asked us to follow him. We were wary, as this was probably some ploy or a tourist trap. We trudged the sidewalk after him. But when he turned left to a small alley, we hesitated. Good thing we spotted a signage that indicated it was a gallery, so we went ahead where the man disappeared.
Ori Gallery looked like a house from the outside. When we entered the place, it was filled with various paintings done on batik. They came in different sizes and images. Some Caucasians were already surveying the paintings. The man who seemed to be running the place handed us a price list which indicated the various prices from A-Z with A being the cheapest and Z the most expensive. They already ran out of A and B paintings and the cheapest available were the C paintings. We headed to the part of the gallery where these paintings were stacked. But they looked too small and too common. We went around and found more beautiful paintings. My fellow travel blogger and my travel buddy for this trip, Jojo Vito, found a few interesting ones he wanted to bring home. Finally, he was able to get one for his own gallery.
Tip 12: After our trip and by further reading, I found many people got scammed by locals pointing them to Ori Gallery and were able to buy some expensive paintings. My friend chose a painting that cost IDR450,000 (approximately USD35 or PHP1,730). It was a medium-sized painting of two fishes. But further haggling brought it down to IDR220,000 (about USD17 or PHP846), not a bad price given its quality and size. I have to agree with others who wrote about this place, it’s not really a bad place filled with bad stuff, and they’re not being pushy either. It’s just that tourists didn’t like the selling point that it’s a school, or an event was happening here; as well as that the costs of some paintings may seem overpriced. Others went back for a 50% refund but kept the painting. Personally, if you don’t like the paintings, avoid the gallery at all cost, but if you are an art enthusiast and want to see the place, just haggle your way to the price you like.
9.) Dine in the relaxing ambiance of Saung Makan Bu Empat
Near Borobudur, away from the busy touristy areas is the Saung Makan Bu Empat. This is just near the highway, but not too exposed to the public. There is a parking area by the entrance of the restaurant. Saung Makan Bu Empat looks like a floating restaurant because it is surrounded by water. They have a fish pond in the restaurant property anhe d lots of trees in its surroundings that provide a relaxing ambiance.
Apart from us, there was another group dining in one of the cottages. We opted to dine in the large hall. You must try their seafood, especially the Ikan Gurame Goreng (fried fish). I also liked the ayam bakar (roasted chicken).
It is located at Jalan Raya Borobudur, Ngrajek, Mungkid, Magelang. Contact number: +62 87 719 183 992.
10.) Binge on Snake Fruit or Salak
It was the first time I have encountered the salak or the snake fruit. The teardrop-shaped fruit has a scaly brownish red skin that resembles that of a snake’s skin, thus, how it came with the name. We bought some on the side of the road en route from Borobudur to Prambanan. Incidentally, we were in a salak plantation, filled with what seemed like palm trees. When you peel the fruit, it has white lobes, which looked like large garlic cloves. The taste can be associated with the jackfruit although the salak is a bit crunchier.
There are more to see, do, and try in Yogyakarta. But I hope these 10 items here are a good start for you. If you want to add more to these activities, feel free to comment below. Don’t forget the tips!
This is part of my 12 Days in Indonesia journey that took me to four cities within this Asian country.