First-time in Phnom Penh: A City of Contrasts and Charms

The little town of Siem Reap was filled with foreigners wanting to see Angkor Wat. Despite the incursion of travelers, it was still a small town as compared to the more progressive city of Phnom Penh, Cambodia‘s capital. Two nights spent at Pub Street and the Night Market was already a great deal for us. A whole day at the Angkor Archaeological Park was most satisfactory. We could pack our bags and bring home the good memories. Everything went as planned…or so it seemed.

Who would have thought our travel plans would take an unexpected twist and land us in Phnom Penh, the bustling capital of Cambodia, for an impromptu overnight stop? Yes, Phnom Penh was the surprise in this trip. We were supposed to spend four days and three nights in Siem Reap but we felt a day less wouldn’t matter. As we were inquiring about the bus transportation to Ho Chi Minh we found out that we had to spend a whole day on the road, although we had to stop briefly at Phnom Penh for a bus change. We didn’t want to sit and waste an entire day staying in a moving vehicle. Besides, we might miss our bus at Phnom Penh if something happens. And since we had to make a stop at Phnom Penh, why not spend a night there as well?

So, here was plan B: we would leave Siem Reap at 7:00 am and arrive at Phnom Penh early afternoon. By then, we would have time to explore the capital and get a big break from a long road trip. We’ll spend the night at the capital and then move on with our journey to Vietnam at noon the day after. As to our accommodation at Phnom Penh, we took care of it while in Siem Reap. Now, all things were set and we hopped on towards Phnom Penh.

It was an instant immersion into the dynamic rhythm of Phnom Penh, and we couldn’t help but embrace the spontaneity with wide-eyed excitement. With the city as our playground, we set out to uncover its hidden gems, from grand temples to lively markets, immersing ourselves in the vibrant tapestry of Phnom Penh’s pulsating charm.

Cambodia countryside

Our bus from the (Kampuchea) Angkor Express line provided us with water, bread, and wipes. It was very comfortable and since we were up at 6:00am, we dozed off during our journey.

I’d wake up every now and then to find only plains with palm trees dotting the horizon, while houses appeared every now and then along the sides of the highway. I observed that most houses were still built on stilts, a familiar Asian feature. Modern houses would build something at the ground level but would still have the usual stairs to the second floor. Also, most of them had hays stacked in their front yard.

Cambodia’s countryside was a bit similar to home. It was very Asian, but I missed the scenic mountain view or seascape I’d usually find when traveling long distance in archipelagic Philippines.

Almost noon, the bus stopped at Romdoul 88 Restaurant for 20 minutes. It was time for toilet break and a little snack. There were vendors everywhere selling fried arachnids, crickets, and all kinds of insects; mango, pomelo, tamarind, and various fruits; vegetables, seeds, and many kinds of finger food. There were old men with amputated arms begging and children asking for money.

It wasn’t a lovely sight because when our bus left it was the scene of a child with his father holding up their hands for alms was the one that bid us adieu.

Finally, after an hour on the road, Mekong came into view and shanties appeared along the river banks near the bridge. The bus stopped at a small office where we waited for our bags to be disembarked before we boarded a tuktuk that took us to our hotel. The driver charged us US$1 each. It was pricey and I reasoned that we usually pay US$2 for everyone in a single trip but he wouldn’t agree to our bargain.

The Royal Guesthouse in Phnom Penh

“Royal Guest House and Cafe Bar – Clean and Reasonable Price..!” was our hotel’s poster that was plastered at the entrance but I’d like to contest this line. It wasn’t really that clean and the price wasn’t reasonable with the kind of service they were giving.

The hotel owner (or manager or whoever she was) wasn’t friendly or accommodating at all. She was obviously a far cry from Helene of Phnom Bok Hotel in Siem Reap. She said that there was only one room ready for occupancy and the other one was still being cleaned. I took a card at the reception and it read that the General Manager was Houng-Than Bopha.

We agreed to leave our things first in one room so we could have our lunch. To our surprise, the hotel staff led us to a narrow door that led to a steep stairs. Then he led us again to a side stairs which seemed to me was more of a fire exit than the main passageway. We went up two more floors, crisscrossing from one wall to another. It was like an old building converted into a hotel. But I never felt it was a hotel, from the poor service to the ambiance, I wouldn’t recommend it to anyone.

When we returned at night, the other room wasn’t still ready and their being unprepared already got into our nerves. The sheets weren’t clean and we couldn’t sleep well because the neighborhood was having a singing party in the street downstairs until past midnight.

Although it gave us a view of the Royal Palace, the surroundings seem to be frightening. Phnom Penh’s streets also transmitted the same feeling of not being safe. It was obviously still struggling from its past but with the influx of tourists, Phnom Penh, was also trying to develop itself to provide a hospitable haven for travelers.

Around Phnom Penh: Mall or Market?

Since we arrived at midday with an empty stomach and no prepared hotel room, we decided to cool off and fill our tummies at the Central Market. We walked for about four blocks and found a mall. It was the perfect place to free ourselves of the day’s heat and surrender our hunger to fast food service.

We might really be in luck because we found Lucky seven, a fast food store located at the ground floor of the mall. I ordered a two-piece chicken meal with rice and large drinks at US$4. The American dollar was also an accepted currency in Phnom Penh, just like in Siem Reap. The Riel didn’t seem much used in Cambodia.

After hours of cooling off at the mall, we walked towards the Central Market which looked like an old train station with a big dome. It was extremely warm inside the market, so we made our way out, and hailed a tuktuk to take us to the Royal Palace.

Sisowath Quay

We got down to the Royal Palace which was already closing at that time. We contented ourselves in taking photos from outside since the intricate design and architecture of one of its buildings were visible from the road.

We also passed by the National Museum, just next to the Palace and made our way to Sisowath Quay. Flags of different countries were displayed along the river bank where people were enjoying an afternoon break sitting by the boulevard, offering prayers in one of the shrines, or taking a boat that traverse through Mekong.

We walked through the quay and found some Cambodians doing dance exercises at the small park. Others were onlookers while the rest were eating street food. When the sun set, some people laid down mats where they sat down for a picnic or do some other activities.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a warm golden glow across the city, we found ourselves immersed in an electrifying adventure. The moment we set foot on the vibrant streets, we were greeted by a symphony of vibrant colors, pulsating energy, and enticing aromas. Tuk-tuks whizzed by, their drivers flashing mischievous grins, while the tantalizing scents of street food wafted through the air, teasing our taste buds.

There were still elephants roaming around the area while bikers and tuktuks fill the streets. It was fascinating to watch the daily way of life in Cambodia’s capital.

We left the next day for Vietnam but we felt it was a good thing that we allotted a night in Phnom Penh. It was an eye-opener and it gave us a glimpse of life in the capital.