The higher we climbed into the mountains, the more dramatic the scenery became.
When we left Taipei earlier that day, the skies were bright and sunny. However, as our vehicle steadily ascended the winding roads toward Xiaoyoukeng, the weather changed almost instantly. Sunshine gave way to thick clouds, swirling mist, and a light drizzle that reduced visibility to almost nothing.
At first, I assumed the gloomy atmosphere was caused entirely by the weather. Then I realized something else was filling the air: the unmistakable steam rising from the volcanic landscape ahead.
Arriving in the Clouds
By the time we reached Xiaoyoukeng, the temperature had dropped to a cool 19°C, while the relative humidity had climbed to 99%. The mountain felt damp, mysterious, and almost otherworldly.
Our driver, Peter, who also served as our guide for the day, pointed us toward a narrow paved trail.
“Take your time,” he said, “but be back at the car when you’re done.”
Before I even reached the viewing area, another clue confirmed we had arrived somewhere extraordinary. A sharp, pungent sulfur smell lingered in the air. It wasn’t overwhelming, but it was impossible to ignore.
Walking Among the Sulfur Vents
Following the paved pathway, I joined other visitors making their way toward the steaming hillside.
Soon, the landscape revealed itself.
White smoke escaped continuously from cracks in the earth, creating an eerie scene that blended seamlessly with the surrounding fog. Bright yellow patches stained parts of the ground; these were solfataras, mineral deposits formed by sulfur-rich volcanic gases.
Amid the steam, I could also make out tiny craters and bubbling geothermal activity. Although visibility remained poor, the volcanic landscape possessed a raw beauty unlike anything I had seen before.
It truly felt as though the mountain was still alive beneath my feet.
Discovering Xiaoyoukeng’s Volcanic Wonders
Located on the northwestern slope of Mt. Qixing within Yangmingshan National Park, Xiaoyoukeng is one of Taiwan’s most fascinating post-volcanic geological areas.
Even though the volcano is no longer active, the mountain continues to release geothermal energy through numerous fumaroles. These are openings in the ground where hot steam and volcanic gases escape from beneath the surface.
Small hot springs can also be found throughout the area, providing further evidence that the earth below remains remarkably active.
Watching steam pour continuously from the ground reminded me that nature never truly stands still. Even without erupting volcanoes, the island continues to breathe beneath its surface.
A Short but Memorable Visit
As fascinating as Xiaoyoukeng was, we knew we couldn’t linger.
The combination of dense fog, high humidity, and the constant smell of sulfur made prolonged exposure uncomfortable. More importantly, spending too much time around sulfur gases is not recommended for health and safety reasons.
Reluctantly, we made our way back to Peter and our waiting vehicle.
Although our visit lasted only a short while, Xiaoyoukeng left a lasting impression. Between the steaming vents, sulfur-stained earth, and mysterious mountain fog, it offered one of the most surreal experiences of our Taiwan adventure.
Sometimes, the most unforgettable destinations aren’t the ones with perfect views. They’re the ones that awaken all of your senses.
View the photos we took at Xiaoyoukeng here on my Facebook page album.
We hired Peter Wang and his taxi to take us to the outskirts of central Taipei for a day. He took us to four destinations. For the five of us, we paid NT200, which included a tip. He provided water inside his taxi and lent us umbrellas and maps. His number is +886 956800955. You can also contact him via Line app.
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