Some places become even more magical when it rains. Jiufen, perched high on the mountains of New Taipei City, proved exactly that.
After spending the morning exploring the fascinating rock formations of Yehliu, our guide, Peter, drove us through winding mountain roads toward one of Taiwan’s most iconic destinations. As the coastline slowly disappeared behind us, mist rolled over the hills, giving the landscape an almost dreamlike atmosphere. It felt as though we were traveling back in time.
Little did I know that Jiufen would become one of my favorite stops during our Taiwan adventure.
The Fascinating History of Jiufen
Long before tourists filled its narrow alleys, Jiufen was a quiet mountain settlement hidden from the rest of Taiwan. According to local history, the village originally consisted of only nine families. Whenever supplies arrived from nearby towns, people would simply ask for “nine portions,” or jiu fen in Chinese, eventually giving the village its name.
Everything changed in 1890.
During the construction of a nearby railway, workers reportedly discovered gold in the surrounding mountains. News spread rapidly, and Jiufen soon transformed into one of Taiwan’s busiest gold-mining towns. Thousands of miners, merchants, and fortune seekers flocked to the area, bringing prosperity to what had once been an isolated village.
However, like many mining towns around the world, Jiufen eventually declined after the gold deposits were exhausted. Fortunately, its historic streets, traditional teahouses, and charming architecture remained remarkably preserved. Today, the town has reinvented itself as one of Taiwan’s most beloved tourist destinations while proudly preserving its rich heritage.
Jiufen’s Rise to Worldwide Fame
Jiufen’s lantern-lined streets, steep stone staircases, and nostalgic atmosphere have captivated filmmakers and travelers alike.
Although many people believe Jiufen inspired the animated film Spirited Away, Hayao Miyazaki has stated that the town was not the direct inspiration for the movie. Nevertheless, the resemblance is striking enough that visitors from around the world continue to make the pilgrimage hoping to experience the magical ambience associated with the beloved film.
Jiufen has also appeared in numerous Taiwanese television dramas, travel documentaries, and tourism campaigns. Its nostalgic scenery, especially when illuminated by glowing red lanterns at dusk, has helped establish it as one of Taiwan’s most photographed destinations.
Arriving at Jiufen in the Rain
By the time we reached the Chenghuang Temple, the drizzle had become more noticeable. Fortunately, Peter anticipated the weather. He handed each of us an umbrella, gave me a map, and patiently explained which route to follow before reminding us where to meet him afterward.
Armed with our umbrellas and a sense of adventure, we climbed a long flight of stairs before following a curved mountain road. Soon, we entered what seemed like an ordinary narrow alley.
For a brief moment, we wondered if we had taken the wrong turn.
The passageway was incredibly narrow, with shops tightly packed on both sides. Because it was a Saturday, the crowd moved slowly as visitors browsed every corner. Then it dawned on us: we had finally reached the famous Jiufen Old Street.
Wandering Through Jiufen Old Street
Jiufen Old Street is a feast for the senses.
Every few steps revealed something different. One shop displayed colorful souvenirs while another sold handcrafted jewelry. Nearby, vendors prepared freshly baked pastries, traditional Chinese snacks, local delicacies, herbal drinks, and handcrafted gifts.
The aroma of roasted peanuts, grilled snacks, and freshly brewed tea floated through the air, blending with the cool mountain breeze and light rain. Even with umbrellas overhead, everyone seemed eager to soak in the lively atmosphere.
The winding lanes encouraged exploration. Every turn offered another discovery, making it easy to forget both time and direction.
A Wrong Turn That Led to a Beautiful View
Our curiosity eventually got the better of us.
Instead of turning where we were supposed to, we unknowingly continued walking until the street suddenly ended at an overlook. Rather than feeling frustrated, we paused to admire the breathtaking mountain scenery stretching toward the distant coastline.
Sometimes getting lost leads to unexpected rewards.
After asking a few friendly locals for directions, we retraced our steps and finally found the famous cobblestone staircase of Shuqi Road.
Walking Down Historic Shuqi Road
The stone staircase of Shuqi Road is one of Jiufen’s most recognizable landmarks.
Together with countless other visitors, we carefully descended the long flight of weathered steps lined with traditional shops and glowing lanterns. Despite the steady drizzle, the historic atmosphere remained captivating.
Eventually, we arrived at the historic Shengping Theater, one of Taiwan’s oldest surviving cinemas. Unfortunately, a long queue had formed outside, and with the rain becoming heavier, we decided not to wait.
Instead, we followed Qingbian Road back toward Chenghuang Temple, discovering even more local treats along the way.
Three Local Delicacies That Caught My Attention
One of the greatest pleasures of walking through Jiufen is discovering its fascinating street food. While there were countless tempting snacks, three stood out during our visit.
Soft and Chewy Mochi
The first was the ever-popular mochi.
These soft glutinous rice desserts came with a variety of delicious fillings and powdery coatings. Their delicate texture made them wonderfully satisfying, and it was impossible to pass by without taking a closer look.
Freshly Blended Grape Juice
Next was a stall selling freshly blended grape juice.
What impressed me most was watching the preparation right before my eyes. Fresh grapes were blended into a thick, syrup-like drink that smelled exactly like ripe grapes. There were no artificial aromas—just the unmistakable fragrance of fresh fruit.
Giant Peanut Blocks
The most unusual discovery was what I initially called “peanut blocks.”
They reminded me of the peanut brittle, or bande, that we enjoy in the Philippines. However, these were much larger, almost the size of a hollow block, and were solidified with sugar.
Instead of serving them whole, the vendor used a special scraper to shave the peanut block into fine, fluffy flakes. The peanut shavings were then wrapped inside a thin crepe-like wrapper, creating one of Jiufen’s signature desserts.
Watching the entire preparation was almost as enjoyable as tasting the finished product.
Why Jiufen Deserves a Place on Every Taiwan Itinerary
Jiufen offers much more than beautiful photographs.
Its fascinating history, preserved architecture, bustling old streets, mountain scenery, and unique local delicacies combine to create an unforgettable experience. Even the steady drizzle added a layer of romance that made the village feel timeless.
Looking back, I realized that Jiufen is best explored without rushing. Wander its winding lanes, pause inside its cozy shops, sample the local treats, and don’t worry if you get lost. In a place as enchanting as Jiufen, every unexpected turn becomes part of the adventure.
By the time we returned to Chenghuang Temple to meet Peter, our umbrellas were still dripping from the rain, our shopping bags had grown heavier, and our hearts were full of memories from one of Taiwan’s most charming mountain towns.
It was a fun shopping escapade, filled with history and culture. Plus, nice views, too. Want to see our photos? Check this link of my Facebook page album.
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