It was a crisp morning when we set off from Bacolod City to Hacienda Santa Rosalia on National Route 7 (N7). The highway was like a ribbon of asphalt that stitches together Negros Occidental’s rolling sugarcane fields and heritage towns. Fellow blogger Betsy Gazo, also an experienced tour guide who had long been eager to show me this hidden gem, joined me for this occasion.
As we drove north, endless lines of sugar cane trucks—silent sentinels waiting for their turn to haul another day’s harvest—flanked the main thoroughfare. The air smelled faintly of molasses and earth, a fitting prelude to our destination: Manapla. It is a town steeped in agricultural legacy and home to one of the island’s most storied estates, the Hacienda Santa Rosalia.
Getting to Hacienda Santa Rosalia, Manapla
Hacienda Santa Rosalia is easily accessible, lying about 30 minutes by car from the Bacolod-Silay Airport in Silay City, Negros Occidental, Philippines. From the province’s capital, Bacolod City, it’s a comfortable one-hour drive by private vehicle. For those traveling via public transport, Manapla is approximately over an hour by jeepney or bus departing from the Bacolod North Terminal. Similarly, air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned taxis, vans, and charter buses are also available for hire from Bacolod.
Just past the “Come Again” arch of Victorias City, the gateway to Manapla welcomed us with its quiet charm. From the highway, a small, unassuming sign pointed left toward the Chapel of Cartwheels. As such, we turned onto a narrow lane, the kind that feels more like an invitation than a route. At the T-junction, we veered left, and there it stood, the Gaston Ancestral House, peering out from behind a veil of trees. But first, we were directed down a winding path to park at the back, where the famed Chapel of Cartwheels awaited.
The Chapel of Cartwheels
Tucked behind the Gaston Ancestral House lies the Chapel of Cartwheels, a structure as whimsical as it is sacred. Built following the architectural principles of Vatican II, the chapel is a marvel of ingenuity and rustic elegance. Its walls are lined with repurposed cartwheels, their wooden spokes creating a rhythmic pattern that not only enhances natural ventilation but also gives the chapel a storybook charm. The roof rises into a conical form reminiscent of a salakot, a traditional Filipino farmer’s hat, grounding the building firmly in both faith and local culture.
Betsy told me that although designed as a place of spiritual respite, the chapel was once a favored retreat for the Gaston family, their guests, and the community within the hacienda, offering solace amidst the hum of plantation life. Though we arrived during its renovation phase, the exterior alone spoke volumes of its soulful design and enduring significance. From the worn grooves of the cartwheels to the gentle curve of its roofline, every detail whispered tales of devotion, craftsmanship, and a deep connection to the land.
The Gaston Ancestral House entrance
From the parking area at the back, we followed a well-worn earthen path, marked by countless footsteps over decades, leading up to the grand yet humble facade of the Gaston Ancestral House. The Gaston legacy in Negros traces back to Yves Leopold Germain Gaston, a sugar expert from Normandy, France, who settled in Silay with his Batangueña wife Prudencia Fernandez. They built a life that would eventually lead their grandson Jose and his wife Consuelo Azcona to establish Hacienda Santa Rosalia as the family’s cherished home in Manapla.
Upon arrival, the Open House was already underway, with descendants of the Gaston clan warmly welcoming visitors. Joey Gaston, Mayee Fabregas, and Anna Ascalon Soenen stood at the helm, sharing stories of their ancestral home as the tour began. Later on, while other guests ascended the grand staircase, we lingered below, captivated by the rich woodwork and the scent of old books. The library, with collections belonging to Msgr. Guillermo Ma. “GG” Gaston, was lined floor-to-ceiling with religious texts and historical volumes, an intellectual sanctuary preserved through generations. In the formal parlor, a circular table bore the names of each Gaston family member who once stood around it.
Exploring the upper floor and dining hall
We then followed the guests to the upper floor. Each room upstairs revealed more about hacienda life through vintage photographs and personal artifacts, making the experience feel less like a museum visit and more like stepping into a living memory. I soaked in every detail, pausing often to admire the intricate wood carvings, hand-stitched linens, and century-old furnishings that still held pride of place. The crocheted doilies, delicately draped over beds in the upstairs bedrooms, hinted at the meticulous care taken in preserving the house’s original character.
Also in the second floor, the dining hall housed a massive 24-seater table, a centerpiece of familial gatherings and celebrations. The house had recently served as a filming location, which explained the temporary closure before this re-opening event.
Promptly at noon, we gathered in the dining hall for the much-anticipated heirloom buffet —a five-course feast rooted in tradition yet bursting with flavor. The long table was set for a communal spread, just as generations of the Gaston family once enjoyed. Joey, Mayee, and Anna shared how these meals brought the entire family together under one roof, before Joey blessed the food.
The Heirloom Menu of Hacienda Santa Rosalia
We lined up at the buffet table and feasted with these food recipes passed down to generations of the Gaston family. Prior to lunch, I already had my fill of the canapés of Sardine Bites with Butter and Spring Onions, a delicate balance of briny richness and fresh zest, as well as the Chorizo and Casa del Formaggio Cheese Diablotin, where smoky Spanish sausage met creamy cheese in perfect harmony. The palate cleanser, Rosalia Punch, was a vibrant concoction crafted from their Lola Mangoy’s secret recipe: tangy, sweet, and refreshingly unexpected.
As I placed my plate before me, I let my mouth savor the Fresh Shrimps Sauteed in Butter and Garlic, flambéed with Don Papa, which brought a dramatic flair and luxurious depth. I then took a spoonful of Msgr. GG’s Pochero, a slow-cooked medley of beef, tomatoes, cabbage, sweet potatoes, sab-a, garbanzos, and Chorizo Bilbao, with each bite a comforting embrace. I also had a fair share of the Dinuguan and Puto Manapla pairing. At the corner of the dining hall, guests partook of the Tossed Green Salad with its Condiments and French Vinaigrette and Roasted Sesame Dressing.
Finally, I didn’t miss having my taste of the famed Adobo Milyonaryo, the estate’s signature take on the classic dish. It was marinated overnight, then fried and braised again in vinegar and soy sauce, crowned with freshly minced garlic for an aromatic finish. To end the meal, Sab-a Turon offered a sweet finale. The banana was wrapped in muscovado sugar, rolled in spring roll wrappers, and deep-fried until golden, then sautéed again in caramelized muscovado for an extra layer of decadence. Paired with Sugar Valley Coffee, the feast was nothing short of unforgettable.
Making Reservations at Hacienda Santa Rosalia
Guests can book the heirloom lunch or brunch experience with a minimum of 10 people at a set price per person. For those who wish to add a musical touch, you can book the award-winning Hacienda Santa Rosalia Rondalla for an additional cost, providing live performances during welcome and post-meal sessions.
The mansion is also available for booking as a venue for weddings, prenuptial photo sessions, special events, and film or TV productions, subject to availability and fees. Reservations must be made in advance at +63 928 5009105. You can find more details at their official Facebook page Hacienda Santa Rosalia.
The View from the Tower
After lunch, Betsy led me through a series of narrow stairways to the tower atop the main house, where a 360-degree view of the estate unfolded beneath me. The Chapel of Cartwheels peeked out from behind the mansion, its conical roof catching the light. To the side, the Shoe House, a charming little structure shaped like a giant boot, stood like a storybook relic. From afar, the empty pool hinted at decades of laughter and celebration. Beyond it all stretched the lush greenery of Manapla, a patchwork of sugarcane fields and trees.
We descended the tower and joined the others downstairs, where the Hacienda Santa Rosalia Rondalla played a final set. As dark clouds rolled in from the horizon, the first drops of rain began to fall, tapping gently against the tiles. It was time to go. We lingered for a while longer, exchanging warm farewells with our gracious hosts and savoring the last moments of our visit. A bag of goodies awaited us at the ground floor parlor, allowing us to take home a piece of memory from Hacienda Santa Rosalia.
With one final look at the sweeping landscape, I stepped away, knowing that though our visit had ended, the memory of Hacienda Santa Rosalia would stay with me. It will be etched in time, like the carvings on its wooden banisters and the echoes of music in its halls.
